![]() ![]() My car could run 165-170F all day long without triggering a engine coolant temperature code.ĪLSO realized that I think the proper operating temperature even for the Diesel should be around 205F at idle? What EVERYONE needs to understand the engine does not run at the thermostat temperature. VW has a engine coolant temperature algorithm that is a MILE wide and will hardly ever trigger on a bad thermostat and if it does is is WAY too late. Took us about an hour and a half - those two flange bolts were an absolute nightmare for me to get at! I ended up using a deep well 10mm socket with an extension - made it a little easier, but not much.įrom what I've been reading, having the higher operating temps should result in a little better mileage - time will tell, I guess.Ĭlick to expand.Yes, it is called OBD Fusion, however, I believe you need an OBD to WiFi adapter, not Bluetooth, check the App page.įor more info check the links in my signature.ĮVERYONE needs to read my Coolant Temperature/Thermostat link below in my signature as well.ĮVERYONE needs to quit drinking the VW coolant sensor Koolaid, the coolant sensor should be replace with a green top unit, BUT the REAL PROBLEM are soft thermostats NOT the coolant temperature sensors. So tonight my son and I put the new t-stat in. I put the new sensor in first, and took it for a drive last night. So, off to idparts for a new sensor (mine is the older blue connector), t-stat and a gallon of G12. Using torque, I could see my coolant temp was around 150 degrees Fahrenheit - nowhere near 190 like it should be for the TDI. There's also a free version if you want to try before you buy. I also use an android app called Torque - for five bucks, you can't beat it's versatility! It can read codes (and clear them), and gives you some neat gauges to play around with. I purchased one of the cheap bluetooth obd dongles from amazon for $13 for another vehicle, and thought I'd try it out with the TDI.Ī: Soliport ELM 327 Bluetooth OBDII OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner: Automotive I had the same issue - the blue light comes on like normal, goes out after a few minutes, then would sometimes come back on. If your comfortable working on cars do a search on the above sites to get pictures, location of sensor and a better detailed how -to. The dealer will probably charge you an hour’s labor even though it will take them less than 15 min. I was lucky when the coolant rushed out I could see the O ring pop out and I quickly plugged it up with the new sensor. The sensor won't go in with two 'o' rings. The problem arises if the old 'o' ring doesn't pop out. It's ok to loose a cup or two of coolant. You gotta be quick and plug it back up with the new one or you'll have a pool of coolant on your garage floor or driveway. The tricky part is once you remove the clip and pull on the sensor coolant starts gushing out. You'll have to remove the air intake tube attached to the air filter to get better access to it. The sensor is located behind the right side of the clylnder head. ![]() Parts itself is less than 10 bucks including 'o' ring, plastic clip and sensor. It's not that hard but can get tricky and ugly in a hurry. Apparently, cars equipped with the black colored sensor which had problems were replaced with the green sensor. Your would think the red one would turn on if there was a problem.Īnyway, I did search on and vwvortex and found there was an issue with the coolant sensor. Even turned on when I was stuck in traffic when it was 100 degrees outside. My light would turn on and off intermittently and flash the odd time. ![]()
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